Your car's correct tyre pressure is printed on a sticker inside the driver's door jamb (not on the tyre sidewall, which shows the maximum, not the recommended, pressure). Most passenger cars specify 30-35 PSI (2.1-2.4 bar), often with a few PSI difference between front and rear axles to account for weight distribution. Check pressures monthly when tyres are cold — driving even a mile warms the air and raises the reading by 2-4 PSI, giving a falsely high number.
At a glance
| Where to look | What it shows |
|---|---|
| Driver's door jamb sticker | Manufacturer's recommended cold PSI, front and rear, plus spare |
| Owner's manual | Same figures, plus load-adjusted pressures for full occupancy/towing |
| Tyre sidewall | MAXIMUM pressure the tyre can hold — not the recommended setting |
| Fuel filler flap (some models) | Occasionally duplicated here instead of the door jamb |
Why the door sticker and the tyre sidewall disagree
This is the most common tyre pressure mistake: reading the number molded into the tyre sidewall (often 44 or 51 PSI) and assuming that's the target. That number is the tyre's maximum cold pressure rating for its full load capacity — not what the manufacturer recommends for that specific car. The vehicle manufacturer's engineers set the actual recommended figure (usually lower, 30-35 PSI) based on ride comfort, handling, tread wear, and braking performance for that exact chassis.
Why front and rear often differ
Weight distribution isn't even — most cars carry more weight over the front axle (engine, transmission), so front tyres are often specified a few PSI higher than the rear to compensate. Some performance and sports models reverse this or use identical pressures depending on their specific weight balance. Always set each axle to its own printed number rather than assuming all four tyres take the same pressure.
| Vehicle type | Typical front PSI | Typical rear PSI |
|---|---|---|
| Compact car | 32-33 | 30-32 |
| Midsize sedan | 32-35 | 30-33 |
| Midsize SUV | 33-36 | 33-36 |
| Full-size truck (unladen) | 35-45 | 35-80 (varies hugely by payload rating) |
How to check pressure correctly
- Check tyres when cold — ideally before driving, or at least 3 hours after the car has been parked
- Remove the valve cap and press a gauge firmly onto the valve stem until the hiss stops
- Compare the reading to the door-jamb sticker for that specific tyre position (front-left, rear-right, etc.)
- Add air in small increments and recheck, since pressure builds quickly with most pumps
- Don't forget the spare — many cars specify a higher pressure for compact spares than for the road tyres
What happens if pressure is wrong
- Underinflated: increased rolling resistance (worse fuel economy), faster wear on the outer tread edges, higher blowout risk from excess heat buildup
- Overinflated: harsher ride, reduced contact patch and grip, faster wear down the center of the tread
- Uneven across the axle: can pull the steering slightly to one side and cause uneven braking response
Load and temperature adjustments
Many owner's manuals list a second, higher pressure spec for full passenger and cargo loads or towing — check this if you're carrying more than the usual one or two people. Pressure also drops roughly 1 PSI for every 10°F (about 6°C) drop in outside temperature, so it's worth checking again at the start of a cold season even if nothing else has changed.
Never set tyre pressure to the number printed on the tyre sidewall — that's the tyre's maximum rating, not your car's recommended setting, and can lead to a harsher ride and uneven wear.
Frequently asked questions
Where do I find my car's correct tyre pressure?
Why is front tyre pressure often higher than rear?
How often should I check tyre pressure?
Does cold weather affect tyre pressure?
What's the difference between the sidewall PSI and the door sticker PSI?
Sources & further reading
- NHTSA — Tire Pressure and Safety
- Tire and Rim Association / manufacturer fitment guides
- RAC — Correct Tyre Pressure Guide
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